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25. Mark Best, Marque Restaurant (Sydney, Australie)

Posted in Best Emerging Chefs-Australia/N-Zealand, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 27 July 2010 | 2 Comments »

Chef Mark Best/Photo: Stuart Scott

ÉLECTRONS LIBRES-AUSTRALIAN CHEF: MARK BEST     

The Électrons Libres, is a group of chefs that are as individual or a leaders of a group have taken a unique route that goes beyond the learning process. Their philosophy transforms the cuisine of the present time as well as the cuisine of the future in a specific area (place) or country. Sometimes they are the leaders of a culinary movement but often, they are alone in their search. Mark Best is a good example of an ‘’Électron Libre’’ in Australia.   

At the age of 21, Mark Best was an electrician who worked in the gold mines of Western Australia. In 1990, while helping a friend in a kitchen, he discovered ”the stove” (art of cooking), this event will change his life.  At  25, he started an apprenticeship at the Macleay Street Bistro (Sydney) and only four years later he won the Josephine Pignolet Award for the Best Up and Coming Chef. Rapidly, he open his own restaurant, the Peninsula Bistro (a critical success), but he stopped everything and left for France. In France, he worked for 4 months (with no salary) at L’Arpège (Alain Passard’s restaurant). Soon after this apprenticeship, he returned to Australia, and opened the successful Marque Restaurant in Sydney (April 1999). 

The cuisine of Mark Best is actually one of the most creative cuisine in the world. Mark Best works with a small team (6-7 persons) and in a very small kitchen. Working under those conditions has made him modify and develop his aesthetic. Like Alain Passard, he uses the best ingredients and works on different textures, contrasts and harmony of flavors. All that allows him to create the most delicious dish possible, nothing superfluous! Just see his recipes (ocean trout, beetroot macaroons, crab-almond gazpacho etc.) to understand the uniqueness of his cuisine. It is Passard + Australian’s ingredients + Asian influence, but at the way of Mark Best! 

I finish with the words of Mark Best: I love the creative process. It is the reason I can get up every day and enjoy going to work… 

  

Q+A WITH MARK BEST (www.marquerestaurant.com.au):  

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine at MARQUE and what is it main characteristics? 

MBest- The cuisine at Marque is inspired and driven by seasonal produce. We bring this to a point of unnatural expression with a range of techniques, some old some new. The plates are to look entirely natural. I don’t like the technique to be visible. 

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable? 

MBest- I guess the overriding taste memories would be from my mother’s family. All home grown vegetables, locally cured meats and pickled products. They were German immigrants who came to Australia in the 1850’s and maintain the food traditions to this day. 

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes? 

MBest- The beetroot seems to keep popping up in our ideas. It is a poor man truffle. Rich, earthy, full of flavour and surprise. 

Beetroot Macaron/Photo: Stuart Scott

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine? 

MBest- The 4 month stage I did at L’Arpège in 1998 continues to inspire and inform my cuisine. Passard is a genius. We have had his Chaud-Froid Egg on since opening in 1999. It is a philosophical touch point and reminds me of the beauty and genius of simple things. 

5-(Scoffier) Eight years ago, we only know Tetsuya Wakuda like Great chef from Australia, but I have discovered with this Serie much extraordinary chefs… like you and a really different cuisine; French techniques with Asian influences and local products. Is there any an Australian signature in world cuisine presently? 

MBest- Tetsuya and Neil Perry broke the ground for the next generation of Australian chefs. I and my pears are indebted to them for their international success. Australia is unique in that we are a wealthy western nation that is physically part of Asia. Indonesia is the same distance as Perth in Western Australia. We are heavily influenced by our migration and the ingredients they bought with them. I think the cuisine in Australia is becoming quite defined and mature. My own cuisine while firmly based in French culinary philosophy is totally informed by the ingredients and techniques of the Asian region we are part of. 

Interior Marque/Photo: Stuart Scott

6-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu? 

MBest- The recipes develop over time. They are part of a constant theme of evolution and refinement. A lot of small ideas come together (sometimes) into a big one.  I also credit the tiny kitchen and its physical limitations with the food aesthetic. It is very pared back and minimal. We only have 6-7 chefs and send 500 plates a night. Things have to be sharp. 

7-(Scoffier) I know that the chef Pascal Barbot (L’Astrance) take a lot of time choosing and picking his produces at the market. Do you spend as much of time to choose and pick your produces? 

MBest- I have known Pascal since my time at L’Arpège and I think we share some similar culinary ideas. The great deal of our time is spent sourcing unique product. Knowing what to do with it is never a problem. The best produce immediately tells you what it needs to tell its story 

8-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from molecular gastronomy or new technology in your cooking techniques? If yes, which? 

MBest- We keep a close eye on the culinary world and the latest technique. The trick is to integrate these techniques into Marque cuisine. 

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Mark Best and Marque Restaurant? 

MBest- My recipe is one of the Marque classics “Blue Swimmer Crab with Almond Gazpacho, Corn Custard, Jelly & Almond oil” The original idea was the combination of crab and almonds. After that it was a matter of expanding on the textures. The crab is king in this dish. 

10-(Scoffier) What is your goal (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show, others? 

MBest- My ambition is to have my restaurant full every day of my wonderful customers who demand the best from us. 

  

RECIPE: Crab with Almond Gazpacho & Sweet Corn Custard 

Crab with Almond Gazpacho.../Photo: Stuart Scott

INGREDIENTS & PROGRESSION RECIPE 

Corn Custard: 

-8 cobs of corn 

1. Method: shave corn off the cob close to the core, blitz and pass through fine sieve and cook liquid out in thermomix at 80*  for 4mins. If not thickened continue with 45 second intervals until thick. 

Gazpacho (almond): 

-200g slivered almonds 

-200g soaked bread 

-Sherry vinegar to taste 

-150ml olive oil 

-Half clove garlic 

-750ml water 

-Salt and pepper 

1. Method: In thermomix blend almonds, bread, olive oil and garlic until smooth paste, slowly add water until desired consistency, season with sherry vinegar and salt & pepper. pass through fine sieve. 

Almond milk: 

-300g slivered almonds 

-350ml cinzano bianco 

-3 clove garlic 

-10 peppercorns 

-2L milk 

1. Method: reduce bianco with the almonds peppercorns and garlic until dry, add milk and infuse on low heat until warm, do not boil. Blitz with stick blender and pass through fine sieve. 

Almond jelly: 

-400ml almond milk 

-2 1/3 sheets of gelatine soaked in cold water 

1. Method: warm 100ml almond milk and dissolve gelatine, whisk in the rest of the almond milk and set in fridge. Once set, place jelly in kitchen aid and whip on high until it looks like a meringue, set in a container 5 – 8cm deep. Keep in fridge. 

Popcorn powder: 

-Corn kernels 

-Clarified butter 

1. Method: heat clarified butter in pan, add corn kernels to cover the base of the pan, when first one pops cover with lid and keep pan moving, until corn has popped. In thermomix blitz popcorn on high speed till fine powder, season with salt. 

Blue swimmer crab: 

-8 blue swimmer crabs 

1. Method : take legs and back off crab, remove filters and steam on 100* for 8mins. 

Other ingredients: 

-1st pressing almond oil 

-Avruga herring roe 

  

FURTHER INFORMATION:        

-Marque Restaurant/Executive Chef Mark Best (Head Chef Pasi Petanen) 

4/5 355 Crown Street   

Surry Hills, NSW 2010, Australia 

www.marquerestaurant.com.au   

  

-Review(s) :       

1. Sydney Morning Herald, Restaurant of the Year 2010, http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/restaurants-and-bars/marque-crowned-sydneys-top-restaurant-20100906-14xyz.html

2.Redvisitor (vidéo), Voted 67th Best Restaurant in the World 2010, http://www.redvisitor.com/Local-Experts/Interview-Mark-Best.html 

3. 702 ABC Sydney, January 2009, http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2009/01/31/2478260.htm 

4. The Sydney Morning Herald, September 2009, http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/good-living/chef-of-the-year–mark-best/2009/09/08/1252201213352.html  

OceanTroutLemonDillJelly/Photo: Stuart Scott

-Vidéo(s) :  MasterClass, World Gourmet Summit 2007  

1. Crab with Almond, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEN5aaPpmjU 

2. Cured Ocean Trout, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fi1PqlNtE-s&feature=related 

3. Citrus Marshmellow, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi-gDk8N7pc 

  

Tous droits réservés. Copyright Scoffier © 2008-2010

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11. Brett Graham, The Ledbury (London, UK)

Posted in Best Emerging Chefs-England, tagged , , , , , , , , , on 31 March 2010 | 1 Comment »

  

Chef Brett Graham/Photo:The Ledbury

THE GAME-BRITISH & SCOTTISH CHEFS: BRETT GRAHAM 

The Brits have been preparing for some time the after Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White cuisine. Not that there is a british style but we can certainly say that the emerging chefs are pro-locavore and that they are sourcing the best products of the island of Albion. In the very cosmopolitan London, the influences of young chefs are many, which give them a unique culinary personality. I discovered Chefs with a very modern style, who are mastering the techniques as well as the French roots, Claude Bosi being one of them. Brett Graham on the other hand combines terroir, flavors and creativity a very nice surprise! As a counterbalance to London, I will present you a great chef of Edinburgh in Scotland, Martin Wishart. He has a strong French influences that works wonders with the best products of the land and sea. 

Brett Graham began his cooking career at aged 15, in Newcastle, Australia. He then moved to Sydney and for three years worked at the highly acclaimed Banc restaurant. In the same time, he won the Josephine Pignolet Award. Later on, he moved to England, where he worked for three years at The Square owned by Nigel Platts- Martin and Phillip Howard. Eventually, when the time was right he opened The Ledbury. 

You will not see Brett Graham on TV or in the Food & Wine Magazine (not yet!) but uncommon in our world, all reviews about The Ledbury are unanimous: his cuisine is extraordinary and the chef Graham is one of the most talented chefs in England. His respect for the products of The Game, the use of modern technology and his understanding of flavors makes him a very creative chef. It has been a great discovery for me, we definitively will have to keep an eye on the chef Brett Graham in the world of gastronomy! 

  

Q+A WITH BRETT GRAHAM (www.theledbury.com ): 

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics? 

BGraham- The main characteristics of my cuisine are Seasonality, Wild Game and some interesting Ingredients. 

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes? 

BGraham- We usually have a different species of deer on the menu all year round. 

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine? 

BGraham- I get inspiration from eating out. Particularly restaurants like Arpège, Noma and also Quay have been very inspiring. 

Brett Graham in the kitchen/Photo: The Ledbury

4-(Scoffier) What do you eat when you are at home? 

BGraham- Simple, seasonally based One Pot Wonders 

5-(Scoffier) I know that the chef Pascal Barbot (L’Astrance) take a lot of time choosing and picking his produces at the market. Do you spend as much of time to choose and pick your produces? 

BGraham- We are open Lunch and Dinner 7 days a week so going to the markets every day would be a challenge. I talk to my suppliers daily and I have a great relationship with them all. I also enjoy hunting and I bring a lot of it back to the Restaurant. 

6-(Scoffier) Why the game is important for you and it is just for a special game tasting menu or anytime? 

BGraham- I really appreciate Game and it’s uniqueness in this country. We will sometimes do a Game Tasting menu which changes depending on the game available. 

7-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from molecular gastronomy or from new technology in cooking techniques? If yes, which? 

BGraham- We use some modern techniques like using Xantham gum to thicken some juices and dressings. There are certain meats which benefit from Waterbath cooking, but the term molecular doesn’t really apply here. 

8-(Scoffier) I have read and seen the photos of your menu, it is beautiful! Can you explain for me and the readers these photos? 

BGraham- The first dish is a Beetroot Meringue made from a recipe given to me by *Mark Best (www.marquerestaurant.com.au ). We serve it with either Foie Gras or Goats Cheese. 

Beetroot Meringue/Photo: Gastrogeek Blog

-Following is the Celeriac, which is baked in Hay Ash and served with Hazelnuts, Wild Boar Kromeski and Wood Sorrel. 

Celeriac, Hay Ash .../Photo: http://gastrogeek.wordpress.com

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish) that is characterized the cuisine of Brett Graham and The Ledbury? 

BGraham- See recipe of Mackerel 

10-(Scoffier) What is your goal (ambitions) as a chef or for the restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show, other restaurant? 

BGraham- My goal is to take The Ledbury as far as I can. I have no plans for a book, television show or another restaurant. I am involved in a small pub in Fulham called The Harwood Arms. The Chef, Stephen Williams, is so talented, it takes very little of my time and I am 100% focused here. 

 

RECIPE: Flame-Grilled Mackerel With Smoked Eel and Shiso (Serves 4) 

Recipe Mackerel/Photo: The British Larder

NOTE: Thanks very much at Madalene of the excellent website The British Larder (www.britishlarder.co.uk ) for the photo and the transcript. 

  

INGREDIENTS & PROGRESSION RECIPE 

Shiso Vinegar Vinaigrette 

-100 ml soy sauce 

-100 ml mirin 

-375 ml shiso vinegar 

-500 ml rapeseed oil 

-1 head of garlic 

1. In a medium size saucepan gently heat the soy sauce, mirin and shiso vinegar over low heat. 

2. Cut the head of garlic in half and add the garlic to the warm infusion. 

3. Remove the infusion from the heat and set aside for 2 hours to infuse. 

4. Pass the infusion through a fine sieve, add the rapeseed oil and whisk vigorously to emulsify. 

Flame-Grilled Mackerel 

-4 fresh Cornish mackerel fillets 

-2 tbs plain flour 

-Freshly cracked pepper and course sea salt 

-Shiso vinegar vinaigrette 

1. Remove the pin bones and scales form the mackerel, and wash the mackerel under cold running water. Drain the fillets on kitchen paper. 

2. Mix the flour, salt and pepper. 

3. Ensure that the mackerel is dry, lightly season the mackerel fillets with the seasoned flour. 

4. Heat a non-stick frying pan with sunflower oil, place the mackerel fillets ( skin side down) into the hot oil, increase the heat and gently cook the mackerel until the skin becomes crispy. 

5. Remove the mackerel from the pan and place the fillets( skin side down) onto a wire rack. 

6. Gently cook the mackerel( skin side down) over open flame, until the skin starts to blister. 

7. Place the mackerel fillets in a small tray, baste the mackerel with the shiso vinegar dressing until the mackerel starts to become translucent. 

8. Set aside to infuse while dressing the plate. 

Cucumber transparent sheets 

-1L cucumber juice 

-12 g agar agar powder 

1. Mix the cucumber juice and agar agar powder. 

2. Heat the emulsion in a medium sauce pan, bring to the boil. 

3. As soon as the mixture starts to boil, remove from the heat and pour on to a flat clean tray to the thickness required. 

4. Let the sheets set, do not move or cover with clingfilm as any movement at this stage will prevent the sheets from setting. 

Smoked Eel and Cucumber rolls 

-120 g smoked eel 

-2 tbs crispy fried shallots 

-1 tbs crème fraîche 

-2 tsp chopped chives 

-2 tsp freshly grated horseradish 

-1 tbs milk 

-Salt and pepper 

-4 cucumber transparent sheets 

1. In a medium bowl mix the Crème fraîche and milk. 

2. Fold in the chives, horseradish, drained crispy fried shallots and seasoning to taste. 

3. Remove the skin and remaining bones from the eel and flake. 

4. Fold the flaked eel in to the crème fraîche mixture. 

5. Cut the cucumber transparent sheets in to 4 even size squares, spoon 50 g of the smoked eel mix on to each square and gently roll them up in to cigar shapes. 

Assembling the dish 

-4 smoked eel and cucumber rolls 

-4 flame grilled mackerel fillets in shiso vinegar vinaigrette 

-4 tbs small diced cucumber 

-4 tbs Jerusalem artichoke puree 

-4 tsp crispy croutons cooked in olive oil 

- 1tsp ground nori 

-1 tbs seaweed mustard 

-Selection of washed and trimmed mixed cress including shiso and coriander cress 

1. Start each plate by arranging the mixed cress in a cordon on the outside, with the crispy croutons, ground noiri and diced cucumber. 

2. Draw a line of the seaweed mustard down the centre of the plate. 

3. Spoon the Jerusalem artichoke puree on one side of the plate, add more diced cucumber and place the mackerel fillet on top of the puree. Place the smoked eel and cucumber roll on the opposite side of the mackerel. 

4. Finish the dish with a drizzle of the shiso vinegar vinaigrette. 

  

FURTHER INFORMATION:   

-The Ledbury/Chef Brett Graham 

 127 Ledbury Road, Notting Hill  

 London (UK), W11 2AQ 

 www.theledbury.com   

-Reviews & Articles:  

1. National Restaurant Awards 2010, Restaurant of the Year 2010, http://www.nationalrestaurantawards.co.uk/

2. The British Larder, December 2009, http://www.britishlarder.co.uk/lunch-by-brett-graham-the-ledbury/ 

3. Wall Street Journal, From Game to Flame, 23 October 2009, http://online.wsj.com/article/SB125625251484302507.html 

4. The Telegraph, Easter Game Feast, 24 March 2010, http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/7511511/Easter-game-feast-at-The-Ledbury.html 

5. Wall Street Journal, Top 10 Young Chefs in Europe, November 9, 2010, http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703514904575601792825186982.html?mod=googlenews_wsj

-Video :  

1. About the Australian cuisine, BlackTomatoTravel,  November 2009, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCByjqN_irg 

  

Tous droits réservés. Copyright Scoffier © 2008-2010  

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